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Flower Baskets and Window Boxes & Planters
Hanging baskets or window boxes full of flowers or foliage plants give a color
boost to your house and garden. They can be used effectively even in a very
small space. If you choose plants carefully, you can change the plantings to
suit every season.
GARDENING IN WROUGHT IRON WINDOW BOXES AND FLOWER BASKET CONTAINERS and PLANTERS
A
lightweight potting mix is needed for container gardening. Soil less planting
mixes provide excellent drainage, aeration and water-holding capacity that
ordinary garden soil can not supply.
Be
sure that your basket or window box has drainage holes. Drainage is essential so
that the planting mix will not become water-logged. Do not place pebbles or
other material at the bottom of the container. They will not provide
better drainage.
Plastic or wire baskets are available. Both have advantages and disadvantages.
Plastic is inexpensive, easy to plant and is slower to dry out. Wire baskets
allow more choices in size and planting arrangements. Many people find them more
attractive. Window boxes are usually plastic, wood or long wire baskets called
hayracks.
Liners are used in wire hanging flower baskets to hold the soil and plants in
position. Liners can be made of dried sphagnum moss or coconut fiber known as
coir.
Window boxes and flower baskets call for a strong support system. Remember that
the containers will be much heavier when watered.
Choose small, healthy young plants for planting. They will adapt to new
surroundings much faster than older plants.
Plant much closer in a window box or basket than you would in a flowerbed.
Include plants with a variety of colors, shapes and textures. Trailing plants
should be planted at the edges and bushy or upright plants will go at the center
or back. Be sure that the taller plants will not block your windows or interfere
with hanging the basket.
Site selection is as important for baskets and window boxes as it is for any
other plant. Remember that most of the time the hanging basket will be viewed
from below. Hang the flower basket so that it will be close to eye level so that
it can be admired and watered easily. Window boxes should extend the entire
width of the window for best appearance.
PLANTING A MOSS-LINED WINDOW BOX OR FLOWER BASKET
1. Soak the sphagnum moss overnight in very warm water.
2. Squeeze as much water out of the moss as you can. Pack the moss in
between the wires tightly from the inside of the flower basket. Make moss
lining 1 inch thick, extending up 4 inches.
3. Add soil mixture to flower basket, going up as far as the top of this
first layer of moss.
4. Water plants well before planting. Crumble peat pots away from plants
grown in them so that it will not wick water away from the roots. Pinch off
flowers on new transplants to promote sturdy growth.
5. Fill the lowest tier with flowers or foliage plants, and then add enough
potting soil mix to cover the roots of plants completely. Firm the soil.
6. Continue to fill and plant the window box or flower basket in 4-to 6-inch
layers. Plant the last group on top.
7. Hang the flower basket or window box and water gently.
PLANTS FOR WROUGHT IRON WINDOW BOX
PLANTERS, CONTAINERS AND FLOWER BASKETS
Use
your imagination in selecting plants. Many types of plants will grow in
containers including annuals, vines, tropical plants, herbs and even some
vegetables. For hanging salads, grow leaf lettuce, parsley and miniature
tomatoes. Herbs thrive in containers and require little care. Thyme, oregano and
rosemary are good for containers because they like the soil to dry out between
watering. Many plants normally grown as houseplants will be great for foliage in
outdoor containers also.
CARING FOR CONTAINER GARDENS
Containers can dry out very quickly. Daily or even twice-daily watering may be
necessary. Feel the soil to determine whether or not it is damp. If the potting
mix feels dry 1 inch below the surface, it is time to water. Apply water until
it runs out the drainage holes. If the pot dries out too much you should immerse
it in water to presoak the soil mix. Containers will need frequent checking as
the plants grow and temperatures become hotter.
Watering wands are good tools for difficult-to-reach flower baskets and window
boxes. They extend your reach and produce a gentle shower.
Frequent watering flushes nutrients from the soil quickly, so frequent
fertilizing is also necessary. Liquid fertilizers or timed-release fertilizers
are the easiest methods of application. Time-release fertilizer pellets can be
mixed into the soil at planting or worked into the top inch later. The soil in
the container should be moist when fertilizer is applied, even liquid
fertilizer. Feed baskets and boxes every two weeks from spring through summer
with a complete liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength.
Remove flowers as they fade to keep flowering baskets blooming well. Many plants
are rejuvenated by a trim in late summer.
How to Make Indoor Plant Soil
Garden soil works fine for growing things in the garden, but there's no place
for it in your houseplant pots. Use it indoors, and garden soil turns hard.
Houseplants can't thrive in cement-like soil. They need sufficient drainage and
aeration. Not to mention soil their roots can grow freely in. Houseplants also
need nutrients to grow healthy and strong. With a few materials, you can easily
make make your own indoor plant soil.
Things You'll Need:
-
Washed
sand
-
Topsoil
-
Peat
moss
-
Charcoal
-
Perlite
-
Bucket
-
Roasting
pan
-
Small
potato
-
Aluminum
foil
-
Meat
thermometer
-
Mix together two
quarts of
clean sand, topsoil and peat moss in a bucket. Mix in 1/2
cup charcoal and 1/2 cup perlite.
-
Stir in just
enough water to make the indoor plant soil damp. Place the soil
into an old, large roasting pan. Level it out so the soil is not
more than four inches deep. If it is, divide it into two pans.
-
Preheat your
oven to 180 F. Stick a potato down deep into the center of
the pan. It should be completely covered with soil. Cover the
pan tightly with aluminum foil.
-
Make a small hole
toward the center of the foil, but away from the potato. Place a
meat thermometer through the hole and into the soil.
-
Place the roasting
pan of soil into the oven. When the meat thermometer reaches 180
F, set the oven timer for 30 minutes.
-
Remove the pan and
check the potato. If it's cooked done, that means the heat of
the oven passed through the soil successfully. Your indoor plant
soil is now sterilized. Allow it to cool before you use it.
-
Keep the unused soil sealed in
clean plastic bags.
-
Soil doesn't smell very good
when it's being sterilized in the oven.
Read more:
How to Make Indoor Plant Soil | eHow.com
http://www.ehow.com/how_5372257_make-indoor-plant-soil.html#ixzz0qY4PRMu9
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
Washed sand
Topsoil
Peat moss
Charcoal
Perlite
Bucket
Roasting pan
Small potato
Aluminum foil
Meat thermometer
Step 1
Mix together two quarts of clean sand, topsoil and peat moss in a bucket. Mix in
1/2 cup charcoal and 1/2 cup perlite.
Step 2
Stir in just enough water to make the indoor plant soil damp. Place the soil
into an old, large roasting pan. Level it out so the soil is not more than four
inches deep. If it is, divide it into two pans.
Step 3
Preheat your oven to 180 F. Stick a potato down deep into the center of the pan.
It should be completely covered with soil. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum
foil.
Step 4
Make a small hole toward the center of the foil, but away from the potato. Place
a meat thermometer through the hole and into the soil.
Step 5
Place the roasting pan of soil into the oven. When the meat thermometer reaches
180 F, set the oven timer for 30 minutes.
Step 6
Remove the pan and check the potato. If it's cooked done, that means the heat of
the oven passed through the soil successfully. Your indoor plant soil is now
sterilized. Allow it to cool before you use it.
How to Make Peat Pots
Many gardeners like to start seeds in seed trays, especially if the soil outside
is still too cold for direct planting. The trouble with using just trays is that
young plants can be traumatized when their patch of planting soil is removed
from the trays and placed in the soil outside. Peat pots remove that risk of
trauma; you can simply plant the entire pot into the outside soil, because the
pots themselves will dissolve shortly after they are planted.
Difficulty: Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
Cardboard toilet paper or paper towel tubes
Newspaper or sheets of sketching newsprint
Peat planting mix
Step 1
Cut the toilet paper or paper towel rolls down to the height you want your peat
pots to be--usually 2 to 3 inches--meaning that you will get two tubes from the
toilet paper roll and four or five from the paper towel roll.
Step 2
Cut pieces from your newspaper or newsprint long enough to wrap two or three
times around the tube and 1 1/2 inches longer than the tube.
Step 3
Fold and tuck the extra length of newspaper up into the tube, wadding it in.
This will be the bottom of your pot.
Step 4
Pull the toilet paper or paper towel tube out of the top of the paper pot. The
pot should stay rolled up.
Step 5
Fill the pot with your peat material.
Step 6
Repeat until you have all the pots you need.
Step 7
Plant your seeds in the peat pots and place your pots into plastic seed trays or
any other shallow container. Water your peat pots by pouring water into the
bottom of your container so that your pots can draw water up through the bottom.
When you're ready to plant your pots, simply place the entire pot into the soil.
After a short time, the paper will break down and the plant will be able to send
roots out from the pot and into the soil around it.
Tips & Warnings
If your newspaper doesn't seem to want to disintegrate after planting, you can
pull the pots back out and simply cut the newspaper away from the peat material,
then place the plant back in the soil.
How to Use Peat Pots
Ask any garden enthusiast and they will tell you that peat pots are perfect for
starting seed for your garden. The seed starts can be vegetables or flowers but
plants like to begin their life cycle in a pot of their own. Read on to learn
how to use peat pots.
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
Peat pots
A plastic or wooden tray
Potting soil
Seeds for planting
Step 1
Look for peat pots at your local garden center or superstores garden department.
They usually come bundled in packages of 50.
Step 2
Buy a tray to hold your pots unless you have something at home that will work
instead. Any flat pan or cookie sheet will also work.
Step 3
Purchase a good quality potting soil to use in the pots.
Step 4
Open the package of peat pot strips carefully to prevent damaging the pots.
Separate the stacked pots.
Step 5
Fill each pot three-fourths full of potting soil.
Step 6
Place two or three seeds in each pot. Cover with more potting soil to the depth
recommended on the seed package.
Step 7
Place the peat pot strips in the tray or other flat surface. Water until the pot
is soaked through.
Step 8
Keep the pots moist until seedlings begin to appear. As the plants grow, thin
the seedlings to one plant per pot. Water the pots as necessary to keep moist.
Step 9
Plant each individual peat pot in your garden when seedlings have reached the
desired height and weather conditions are favorable. Plant the entire pot into
the ground or larger container.
Tips & Warnings
Peat pots are easier to handle during the seedling stage if left in strip form.
Separate when ready to plant. In some parts of the country, these are referred
to as Jiffy Strips or Square Jiffy Pots. Buy your peat pots early in the season
as they are usually one of the first items to be sold out at most garden centers
and superstores.
How to Preserve Strawberry Seeds
Strawberries are the favorite fruit of many people, and are one of the easiest
fruits for the home gardener to produce. To grow strawberry plants from seed,
you'll need to start with an heirloom or natural variety in order for it to
remain true to the characteristics of the parent plant. Here's how to preserve
strawberry seeds in order to enjoy those berries for many years to come.
Instructions
Step 1
Begin with non-hybrid plants. You can grow these from seed or purchase the
plants.
Step 2
Use mature fruit. Leave the fruit on the plant until it has fully matured, and
then harvest the strawberries. These berries will be mushy and past their prime
for eating or preserving.
Step 3
Extract the seeds. There are two methods that can be used for this. One is to
allow the fruit to dry and then, holding it over a clean container, rub it
between your finger and thumb to allow the seeds to fall off. The other method
is to press the pulp of the mature fruit gently through a sieve, leaving the
seeds in the sieve, and wash the seeds under running water while they are still
in the sieve.
Step 4
Dry the seeds. The seeds must be allowed to dry thoroughly before being stored.
You'll know they are dry when they no longer cling to each other and can be
moved easily in the container.
Step 5
Store the seeds. Keep the seeds in labeled envelopes in a cool, dry place until
you're ready to plant them.
Step 6
Sow the seeds. To start your seeds growing, fill small pots with a commercial
seed soil mix. Sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the soil, and then cover
with a fine layer of the soil mix. Mist with a spray bottle and keep the seeds
moist. Transplant the seedlings to the garden area when they are ready.
Step 7
Repeat the process. Since strawberry plants will remain vigorous for only about
2 years, you'll need to repeat this process regularly to maintain your supply of
seeds.
How to Start Seeds
It's rewarding to start your own seeds and grow varieties of flowers and
vegetables that aren't commonly found in garden stores or nurseries. Most seed
packets or seed catalogs include specific instructions for starting the
particular seed contained inside the envelope, but here are some general rules,
hints and tips.
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
Seeds
Potting mix
Flats or large, shallow pots
Trowel or shovel
Gloves
Step 1
Fill your flats or pots to about 1 inch of the top with potting soil.
Step 2
After you fill your flat or pot with soil, gently pat it down to compress it a
bit.
Step 3
Give the flat or pot a gentle shower with the hose.
Step 4
Scatter small seeds evenly over the surface of you flat or pot. For larger
seeds, such as beans, poke holes of the correct depth into your potting mix.
Step 5
Cover with soil, and then gently pat the soil down with your palm.
Step 6
Gently sprinkle with water.
Step 7
Put your flat or pot in a sunny place and remember to water it daily to keep the
surface layer moist.
Tips & Warnings
The black plastic flats you can get at nursery stores for a dollar or less work
just fine. Make sure that you give the seeds plenty of room: if a seed packet
has 300 seeds in it, for example, you'll want to use an entire flat. Some
packets have very few seeds in them; in this case, you can use a black plastic
nursery pot. You can use a screwdriver or pencil to make holes for large seeds.
Some seeds are called "light-dependent germinators," which just means that they
need sunlight in order to sprout. Your seed packet will mention this if it's a
requirement. In this case, all you need to do is scatter the seeds over the soil
surface and then gently pat them into the soil with your palm. Some instructions
might mention that it's good idea to cover your seeds with clear plastic to keep
them moist and warm. However, this can cause new sprouts to burn, shrivel and
die if it gets too hot.
How to Grow Herbs From Seeds
Growing your own herb garden can be fun and beneficial. With so many different
types and uses for herbs, having a garden variety means more creative dinners or
more decorative planters. Most herbs can be grown from seeds. They are also
grown by divisions, cuttings and layerings. Taking different sections of leaves
and stems and replanting them is a productive way of increasing your herb
garden, quickly and easily. If you are considering starting your own herb garden
and you've purchased an assortment of herb seeds, learn how to grow them.
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
Clay pots Potting soil Herb seeds Garden shovel Water soluble fertilizer Organic
mulch
Step 1
Purchase little clay pots, one per herb type. Or, you can purchase a larger clay
pot, 24 inches in diameter and grow many herbs in one.
Step 2
Fill each pot halfway with a houseplant potting soil blended with polymers. A
well drained soil is best for growing seeds indoors. Most herbs prefer sunlight.
Step 3
Push about 5 seeds per pot into the soil 1/4-inch below the surface. Sow fine
seeds in shallow soil. Plant coriander, dill, anise and fennel directly in the
outdoor garden as they do not transplant well.
Step 4
Let the seeds germinate for about eight weeks, at which time they will be ready
for transplanting outdoors. Do not transplant when the soil is cold. The best
time of the year for outdoor planting is in May.
Step 5
Prepare the area outdoors where you will transplant the herb seedlings. Work the
soil until it is fine and slightly wet. Marjoram, thyme and savory grow best if
sand is blended into the soil.
Step 6
Plant the seeds in narrow rows and firmly compact the dirt above them. After
four leaves have formed, add a 1/4-strength water soluble fertilizer to the
soil.
Step 7
Water your herbs with 1 inch of water per week, either by rainfall or
supplemental watering. It's best to use a fine spray to prevent washing away the
seeds. Add organic mulch to the soil to prevent drying out.
Step 8
Fertilize sparingly, as too much fertilizer can ruin the aroma and taste of the
herbs. Note that chervil, lovage, fennel and summer savory require more
fertilizer than other herb types. Well-rotted manure is a good choice for slowly
releasing nutrients into the herb root system.
Step 9
Add a bushel of peat or compost every 100 square feet of soil to improve the
condition and retain necessary moisture.
Tips & Warnings
Individual herbs require different amounts of water, sunlight and treatments.
Always read the seed packets to ensure that you plant each specific herb
properly.Red spider mites invade low growing plants in hot dry weather. Caraway,
dill, fennel and anise are susceptible to aphid infestation.
Suggested plants for spring, summer
Bronze-leaf begonias (will take some sun)
Impatiens
Pentas (will take some sun)
Strapleaf caladiums (shorter than fancy-leaf)
Plants for winter color
Small-leaved cyclamen
Pansies
Violas
Easy tips for growing herbs in a window box.
Garden pots and window boxes filled with herbs can help add a fresh touch to
your foods and give a boost to your landscape and house.
Window boxes and containers, overflowing with lush plantings, can do more than
add a "wow factor" to your home, patio, deck or balcony.
Filled with herbs, those containers can be welcome partners in the kitchen as
well as hardworking members of your gardening team.
The oils in herbs that flavor teas, accent salads and kick up the character of
our culinary concoctions also play a role in the health of a garden.
"I would plant herbs in my garden if I weren't even cooking with them because
they attract beneficial insects that control all the pest insects," says
Rosalind Creasy, the Los Altos, Calif., author of numerous garden and food
books. "Both cooks and gardeners benefit from an herb's aromas because you don't
need to use environmentally disruptive chemicals to protect them," writes Jeff
Cox in "The Cook's Herb Garden" (DK Publishing, $18). Cox, Horticulture magazine
contributing editor, cowrote the book with food writer Marie-Pierre Moine. It's
a one-stop guide to growing culinary herbs, packed with photos, tips on
propagation, storage, weed control and pests, as well as recipes, harvesting
tips and more.
Herb pot tips:
Here are tips from Cox and Creasy for anybody filling window boxes or patio pots
with herbs.
Grouping: Combine plants that need the same amount of water and fertilizer,
Creasy says. Plant drought-tolerant Mediterranean herbs such as oregano,
rosemary, thyme and marjoram in one container, and herbs that need more water
and fertilizer (say, parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil) in another.
Size things up: "Genovese basil can grow to 2 ½ feet tall. You put that in a
window box, it's not going to look very good," Cox says. "If you're going to put
herbs that tend to grow tall in a window box, keep pinching them back."
Shopping savvy: Buy healthy plants growing in good-size pots, Cox says; avoid
the leggy ones. Too much top and too little pot means the herb has been watered
with liquid fertilizer, he says, "so [it] hasn't needed to grow a lot of root
system and put its energy into growing a large top." Once the plant is placed in
soil, it won't have the root strength to sustain itself.
Container choices: Use containers that have good drainage (holes on the bottom
are a must, for starters). Cox puts a plastic tray in the bottom of a window box
with drainage holes, then layers in some stone or gravel.
"When you water, the water isn't just running through and putting soil onto the
deck or patio." Also, he adds, "don't set a pot with a drainage hole directly on
a deck. The water can stain."
Clay, such as terra cotta, won't rot, Cox notes, . If you're putting terra
cotta pots in a window box, it makes it nice and easy to take them out to work
on.
Soil matters: Choose a good-quality, fast-draining soil, Creasy advises.
It needs to be lightweight in a window box, but that's also practical for
containers you'll be moving around a patio. She recommends that the soil have a
water-holding medium; these may be pricier, but they are more practical in the
long run.
Room to grow: Don't cram herbs in too tightly, Cox says. "Give them a little
elbowroom because that really translates into root room and a healthier plant,"
he says.
Sun and nutrients: Most herbs require full sun, although several (mints, for
example) can handle some shade. Pay attention to their growing needs, especially
if they will be in one place (like a window box) for the entire season.
Creasy recommends using a good-quality, organic slow-release fertilizer. Because
the soil in containers dries out quickly, plants may need daily watering,
especially when it's hot outside.
Snip away: One of the biggest benefits of growing herbs is that they love to be
used — so don't be afraid to snip them. Herbs in containers especially benefit
from constant harvesting, Cox writes, which also keeps plants under control in
their restricted space.
Planting a flower garden
Planting a flower garden may be an overwhelming experience for anybody let alone
a beginner gardener. The good news is there are easy ways to get around it by
following these simple steps. Read on to find out what these simple tips are for
planning your garden landscape and what lawn decor to choose to get what you
want from the sweet escape in your backyard.
Before you head to a nursery or garden center, make sure you have a plan. Think
about where you want to put your flowers and garden accessories, what colors you
want where, how many and so forth. This will make your shopping experience much
easier and faster and probably less expensive. You'll want to enjoy a garden
that's in bloom from early spring to late fall by choosing annuals (plants that
do not come back every year) and perennials (plants that do come back every
year) based on when they flower. Refer to plant tags for specific information
that pertains to your garden. When picking plants at the nursery pay attention
to the height and width before assigning them a permanent home. When it's time
to divide your perennials, offer to share your extras with your garden-savvy
neighbors in return for plants you don't have yet. Make sure to observe your
yard's sun and shade areas. Look for wet or dry spots. Watch for sandy soil and
dense clay. By knowing your garden's conditions, you can plant flowers where
they'll thrive. For soils that do not produce thriving plants consider putting
garden accessories such as garden statues, gnomes, wind spinners, wind chimes,
stepping stones, mulch, rock, and other lawn and garden decor. When choosing
garden accessories for additional lawn decor around your garden, consider
potting perennials and/or annuals in containers and placing them around your
yard. Garden planters are an easy way to create colorful accents. Many plants
benefit from deadheading, when faded blooms are removed to encourage new growth.
To deadhead, cut off the spent slower close to a bud that's lower on the stem or
above a leaf node. To enjoy perennials or annuals indoors, cut the flowers in
early morning or late afternoon, submerge them in lukewarm water and add a
floral preservative.
Garden accessories are a great way to add a little extra something to any
outdoor space. The nice thing about garden accessories is that they come in all
forms, shapes and sizes. Choosing the right lawn decor for your garden or
backyard is always a fun experience because there is so much you can do with it.
Garden stepping stones make transitioning from one place in your backyard to
another very easy and it is also very decorative. Stepping stones can be
anything from limestone rock, cement blocks or slates to flat plaques. Don't
forget about your avian friends. Putting bird houses, bird baths and bird
feeders in a flower garden invites even more color and entertainment to enjoy.
There are tons of different kinds of bird feeders out there; some are
decorative, some are for specific kinds of birds and some are very plain-jane
bird feeders. Which ever strikes your fancy your avian friends will be sure to
re-visit your flower garden. Other garden accessories you can consider putting
up in your flower garden are wind chimes and wind spinners. You can find many
different kinds of hook stands out there for hanging these types of garden
accessories as well as brackets for the side of a post or wall.
Your flower garden will look amazing after following these simple steps in
planning for a garden. The nice thing about garden accessories is that they are
versatile. You can put them almost anywhere and plant flowers around them or
accent some already planted flowers and plants with the garden accessories.
Whatever you choose to do you will be happy with the result it produces.
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